How to evaluate matcha green tea

Today I’m revisiting a method to evaluate matcha I had described a few years ago in my blog post “Comparing 2 single-cultivar matcha”. I did not invent this method, but I had borrowed it from the Kettl tea blog. Unfortunately, their original post is no longer available for reference, but I remember following their method exactly.

I selected 3 different matcha green teas from my collection, which at the moment includes 5 (actually 6 if we include culinary grade) and evaluated them side by side.

Let’s start by reviewing what kind of information is available for each one of them. As a rule of thumb, the more details are available, the better because plenty of information can indicate a close relationship between the matcha purveyor and the tea maker. It means the purveyor cares about sourcing.

Matcha grades

Here’s the thing, there is no standardized grading system for matcha, not even in Japan.

In Japan there are tea competitions and I feel like “competition-grade” is a good indication of quality for tea from Japan. But competition-grade tea rarely makes its way out of Japan. In addition, the schools of tea ceremony in Japan will have preferences in matcha purveyors and their offerings. I asked my friend Mike Newton, who not only is a fellow tea blogger but he’s also a student of chado (the Japanese way of tea, which we imprecisely refer to as “tea ceremony”). He told me that “tea school preferences are more for flavor profiles and blends rather than any grading system. Although there is ‘shiro’ and ‘mukashi’, as you can see with Ippodo.”

‘Mukashi’ in the name of a particular type of matcha can refer to ‘koicha grade’, while ‘shiro’ can refer to ‘usucha grade’. Let me explain. Usucha or thin tea is the way matcha is traditionally prepared in a bowl with a bamboo whisk, usually with a layer of froth (although that varies depending on the school of tea ceremony). That is what we commonly associate with “traditional ceremonial matcha”. Koicha or thick tea is a way of preparing matcha by kneading the powder into a smooth paste with a very little amount of water. It looks like a thick matcha sauce and it’s extremely concentrated. Because of that, if you used a lower grade of matcha to prepare koicha, it would be extremely bitter and unpleasant. Usucha might be a little more forgiving, even though I’m not sure about that, I have high standards for my usucha too. Going back to what Mike pointed out about ‘shiro’ and ‘mukashi’, he added that matcha characterized as “‘mukashi’ can also be used for usucha, and I think it’s not “grade” so much as whether or not the tea becomes too bitter for koicha (i.e. not enough sweetness to balance).”

So as you can imagine, it’s best to do your research since you can’t really trust catchphrases like “ceremonial”, “premium”, “hyper premium”, just to mention a few. If the matcha purveyor mentions “usucha grade” and “koicha grade”, that’s a good starting point.

In addition to higher grades, there are lower grades of matcha that are more suitable for other purposes, like making matcha lattes, sometimes referred to as latte grade, and culinary grade for baking.

I’m not going to mention any matcha brands just yet, for that you’ll have to read through this post for the big reveal.

What information is available from the purveyor?

Here’s the information available for the three matcha I’m evaluating:

Matcha number 1: single estate, single cultivar, harvest date, name of and info about the farmer, type of agricultural practice, info about the tea garden and climate, brewing guidelines and tasting notes. Price: $35.00 (30 gr). This is extremely detailed and gives me confidence about the legitimacy of the product.

Matcha number 2: USDA organic ceremonial grade, premium first crop, they mention “partner farm in Japan” but it doesn’t say anything about it. Price: $42 (30 gr). This is a bit disappointing, I’d like to know much more especially at that price point. Where was it grown? What blend of cultivars is it? When was it harvested? I don’t like “ceremonial grade” or “premium first crop” as marketing terms without specific supporting information.

Matcha number 3: single cultivar, name of and extra info about the farmer and tea garden, garden management and type of soil, brewing guidelines and tasting notes. Price: $38 (20 gr). I love the level of detail provided and it gives me confidence about the legitimacy of the product.

The packaging is the same in all three matcha teas, a foil pouch inside a metal tin.

Smell test

Now, let’s open the foil pouch. Stick your nose in there. What do you smell?

Matcha number 1: woodsy like cypress

Matcha number 2: vegetal and nutty

Matcha number 3: vegetal with a fresh note

Color test

Now let’s take a look at the matcha powder before water. The method I followed recommends taking a small amount of matcha and spreading it in a smear on a piece of white printer paper, with different types of matcha side by side.

Matcha n.1 (left), matcha n.2 (center) and matcha n.3 (right)

Matcha number 1: bright green with some yellow undertones

Matcha number 2: slightly darker green than the other two with neutral undertones

Matcha number 3: lighter bright green

Texture

Matcha number 1 has the finest texture and feels almost impalpable; matcha number 2 is slightly coarse to the touch; and matcha number 3 falls somewhat in between the other two but it’s still very fine.

Color and texture can be a good indication of quality. To achieve extremely fine matcha powder, which is necessary to create a great mouthfeel, tencha green tea leaves are ground in a stone mill. The process is extremely slow and temperature-controlled because the friction from milling can result in heat, which will spoil the tea, making it turn brownish / yellowish in color. If matcha is not stored properly, it will have a brownish / yellowish color and unpleasant smell.

In a small, white ceramic cup, I put a small amount of matcha and added 2-3 teaspoons (10 - 15 ml) of hot water at 195 F (90 C). I used my chashaku (bamboo scoop) to mix the matcha with water without creating foam. This way it was easier to evaluate the color and particles.

Second smell test

1. Woodsy and seaweed

2. Nutty / roasted notes and vegetal

3. Vegetal and marine (seaweed)

Second color test

After 20 minutes, the matcha will settle at the bottom of the cup. Evaluate the color again by looking at the edge (it’s easier against the white cup).

1. Dark green with yellow hues

2. Dark green (neutral)

3. Bright fresh vibrant green

Taste test

Mix the matcha with a spoon (I used the end of my bamboo scoop again) and slurp. At this point, it will be a cold, concentrated shot of flavor.

1. Bitterness is prominent, seaweed note and woodsy finish

2. Slightly bitter and astringent, vegetal like overcooked veggies

3. Savory / sweet, some pine needle notes

Final taste test

Last but not least, I prepared matcha n.3 like I would normally do, in a chawan (bowl) with a chasen (bamboo whisk). I used 1 tsp (2g) of matcha per 2 oz (60 ml) of water at 176°F (80 C). I couldn’t bother with either matcha n.1 or n.2 because I can only enjoy them as matcha lattes. Matcha n.1 is a native cultivar and it’s extremely bitter but it really shines in a latte with good, unsweetened soy milk. Matcha n.2 is not complex enough on its own, even though it’s good in a latte, again with high-quality unsweetened soy milk. Matcha n.3 is mellow, light-bodied, not astringent, vegetal and sweet but not very umami. A really good matcha, even though I prefer a different flavor profile.

How to evaluate matcha green tea - The Tea Squirrel

Matcha shelf life and how to store it

I don’t recommend buying more matcha than you can consume in a month. Matcha is very perishable once opened. An unopened, sealed tin of matcha should have a “best by” date and I recommend storing it away from heat, humidity, light and strong scents. Once a tin of matcha has been opened, keep it well sealed in the fridge. If the packaging includes a foil pouch inside a metal tin, always fold the inner foil pouch to close it and clip it in place. Before storing in the fridge, I put my matcha tin in a resealable ziplock back or airtight container. I don’t recommend transferring matcha powder from the original tin into another container, it’s messy, you’re going to end up with matcha everywhere and the other container might not be appropriate.